Panettone al Cioccolato di Iginio Massari

Mature:
Sweet Alcohol aroma not sharp
Taste of Mozzarella, no bitter aftertaste
Soft ivory-white dough with elongated alveoli
pH 4.1

Feeding procedure that lead to mature lievito:

Tues. 00.00 1:1 – 12hrs @ ~18C
Tues. 12.00 1:1 – 12hrs @ ~18C
Wed. 00.00 1:1 – 17hrs @ ~18C
Wed. 17.00 1:1 – 18hrs @ ~18C
Thurs. 11.00 1:1 – 4hrs @ 28C
Thurs. 15.00 1:2 – 4hrs @ 28C – here ratio 1:2 to adjust for lievito too strong!
Thurs. 19.00 1:1 –15.5hrs @ ~18C
Fri. 10.30 1:1.5 – 4hrs @ 28C
Fri. 14.30 1:1 – 4hrs @ 28C
Fri. 18.30 1:1 – 4hrs @ 28C

Fri 22.30 – Primo Impasto

Lievito was put into a bath at the end of the storage phase at ~18C before the next refreshment.

Formula:
Panettone Al Cioccolato di Iginio Massari

60    1000 Lievito
240    4000 Flour 280-320
60    1000 Sugar
81    1350 Butter
60    1000 yolks
78    1300 water

60    1000 flour 280-320
—-    3n vanilla
60    1000 yolks
72    1200 sugar
21    350 honey
93    1550 butter
4.8      80 salt
42     700 water
60    1000 cioccolato fondente
60    1000 cioccolato latte
60    1000 candied orange
1111.8    18530

Panettone di Rolando Morandin

… con cioccolato.

I follow Morandin’s method of keeping the madre in water all the time. Making three refreshments every 3 hours.

I subbed fruit for dark lindt chocolate.

Panettone di Rolando Morandin

200.0    4000 Flour
87.5    1750 sugar
50.0    1000 water
112.5    2250 yolks
100.0    2000 lievito
25.0     500 water
125.0    2500 butter

50.0    1000 flour
17.5     350 sugar
22.5     450 yolks
25.0     500 butter
  6.0     120 salt
150.0    3000 orange
100.0    2000 sultanas
50.0    1000 cedro

Hot Cross Buns with Lievito Madre


These buns were a make it up as you go along effort. I was still deciding on the numbers with the mixer running, working the dough I had thus far and I liberally added spices in the style of a well seasoned chef.

Having worked up a sweat mixing this dough partly by hand as well as in the mixer and the dough complete I saw I could have added more liquid. I knew the dough would tighten up a bit upon adding the dried fruit but I didn’t compensate enough. Still I was fairly pleased with finished dough considering this was an off-the-cuff, part improvised endeavour.

In keeping with the theme of improvising I picked a random weight at which to scale these. At circa 85 grams I had enough dough to make 18, more or less equal buns.

First dough:
300g flour
100g milk
75g LM (Lievito madre), refreshed 3 times
75g sugar
68g egg (1 large)
50g butter

Second Dough:
300g flour
150g milk
50g egg (1 medium)
75g sugar
125g butter
30g honey
9g salt
180g mixed fruit
# 1n orange zest
# 1/4tsp clove oil
# 1/4tsp orange oil
# 1/4tsp all spice
# 1/4tsp nutmeg
# 1/8tsp ginger
# 1.5tsp mixed spice
# 1.5tsp cinnamon

Traditionally the crosses should be made of just flour and water but I added some butter in there to shorten the flour slightly. And I used juice from the orange which I zested with some sugar to make a sweet glaze for the buns.

Colomba di Giorilli


I recognise Piergiorgio Giorilli to be a true master of baking. I followed the recipe from Fables de Sucre. For me the first and second dough’s rose very quickly.


Being so soft and light, unfortunately when hanging this dove upside down, it tore open at the wing but other than that mishap this was a perfect colomba di pasqua. I let this mature for a week before slicing into. Of course it was delicious!

Some minor crumb issues.

Doughnuts with Lievito Madre

…based upon a formula by Francesco Favorito.

Oh my. These are some damn fine tasting doughnuts, easily the best I have ever eaten, seriously!

  • 500g strong flour, I used Canadian wheat
  • 100g lievito madre, refreshed*. I made three refreshments
  • 50g mashed potatoes
  • 3 whole eggs, about 155g
  • 110g whole milk
  • 50g sugar
  • 5g salt
  • 100g softened butter
  • Zest of one lemon

*Lately I have been conserving my lievito in water. In addition to this I have taken to refreshing at three hour intervals. As a result my lievito is low in acid and it triples its volume in just two hours at 28C.

Mix flour, salt, sugar, lemon zest, lievito, potato, eggs and milk to a smooth dough. Add butter to finish the mix. Wrap and leave in the fridge overnight. In the morning transfer the dough to a warm room at 28-30C, After 1 hour divide dough into 65g pieces and round. Proof at 28C for 6-7 hours. Fry in oil at 180C for 90 seconds each side. Drain on paper towel and coat in sugar mixed with lemon and orange zest.

These were pretty big for just 65 grams of dough! I had enough to make 16 doughnuts.

I filled these with pastry cream:

  • 500ml whole milk
  • 100g sugar
  • 40 corn flour
  • 4 egg yolks
  • seeds of one vanilla pod
  • one piece of lemon peel

Cream egg yolks with sugar and then corn flour. Bring to the boil milk with vanilla and lemon. Strain into the egg yolk mixture and return to the pan. Cook gently until thick, stirring all the time. Cover and chill overnight.