Panettone di Giorilli

Piergiorgio Giorilli is a baker in a league of his own. His years of experience and effortless skills speak volumes. He is a true master! I have known of Giorilli for sometime now, yet I haven’t until now made a panettone in accordance with his methods and formula.

Processing of the mother dough is a skill that requires tuition and above all else experience. Giorilli opts to maintain his madre in water during the standard 12 hour period. While as typical, before proceeding to the first dough three refreshments are made lasting 4 hours each time.

From Giorilli.com I sourced his recipe. I adapted his formula to make two 500 gram panettoni, flavoured with the traditional sultanas, orange and citron.

Primo impasto

69g lievito madre mature
75g sugar
120g water
54g egg yolks
72g butter
240g flour

Secondo impasto

60g flour
66g sugar
4g salt
96g egg yolks
129g butter
2g malt
120g sultanas
60g candied orange peel
30g candied citron

aromatic mix x2

30g acacia honey
vanilla pod seeds
orange zest
lemon zest

panettone-crumb

Panettone al Cioccolato di Iginio Massari

Mature:
Sweet Alcohol aroma not sharp
Taste of Mozzarella, no bitter aftertaste
Soft ivory-white dough with elongated alveoli
pH 4.1

Feeding procedure that lead to mature lievito:

Tues. 00.00 1:1 – 12hrs @ ~18C
Tues. 12.00 1:1 – 12hrs @ ~18C
Wed. 00.00 1:1 – 17hrs @ ~18C
Wed. 17.00 1:1 – 18hrs @ ~18C
Thurs. 11.00 1:1 – 4hrs @ 28C
Thurs. 15.00 1:2 – 4hrs @ 28C – here ratio 1:2 to adjust for lievito too strong!
Thurs. 19.00 1:1 –15.5hrs @ ~18C
Fri. 10.30 1:1.5 – 4hrs @ 28C
Fri. 14.30 1:1 – 4hrs @ 28C
Fri. 18.30 1:1 – 4hrs @ 28C

Fri 22.30 – Primo Impasto

Lievito was put into a bath at the end of the storage phase at ~18C before the next refreshment.

Formula:
Panettone Al Cioccolato di Iginio Massari

60    1000 Lievito
240    4000 Flour 280-320
60    1000 Sugar
81    1350 Butter
60    1000 yolks
78    1300 water

60    1000 flour 280-320
—-    3n vanilla
60    1000 yolks
72    1200 sugar
21    350 honey
93    1550 butter
4.8      80 salt
42     700 water
60    1000 cioccolato fondente
60    1000 cioccolato latte
60    1000 candied orange
1111.8    18530

Panettone di Rolando Morandin

… con cioccolato.

I follow Morandin’s method of keeping the madre in water all the time. Making three refreshments every 3 hours.

I subbed fruit for dark lindt chocolate.

Panettone di Rolando Morandin

200.0    4000 Flour
87.5    1750 sugar
50.0    1000 water
112.5    2250 yolks
100.0    2000 lievito
25.0     500 water
125.0    2500 butter

50.0    1000 flour
17.5     350 sugar
22.5     450 yolks
25.0     500 butter
  6.0     120 salt
150.0    3000 orange
100.0    2000 sultanas
50.0    1000 cedro

Panettone Paradiso

“Extra paradise” panettone from Cresci

286 10000 Flour W280
66 2300 Lievito Naturale
100 3500 Sugar
149 5200 Water
100 3500 Butter
0.29 10 Fresh yeast
40 1400 Sugar
57 2000 Honey
2.86 100 Diastatic malt powder
0.86 30 Fresh yeast
100 3500 Butter
63 2200 Egg yolks
86 3000 Walnuts
57 2000 Raisins
29 1000 Dark chocolate drops
2.86 100 Salt
—— —– Flavourings (Orange zest and vanilla)
1139.87 39840

Amendments:
I made two changes, one was to omit the added compressed yeast and the other was  substituting some of the walnuts with candied orange peel.

One of my finest panettoni. Incredibly soft and light which makes hard work when slicing. A fantastic bready texture that tears beautifully when pulled apart.

This is a very difficult formula to achieve success. The enriching ingredients in ratio to the flour are higher than any other panettone. This is due to their being no flour added in the second dough.

Panettone al Cioccolato e Arancia

P1010715r
Gotta love chocolate!

Recipe source: http://www.panperfocaccia.eu/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=16418


Final dough moulded and later fully risen.

Primo Impasto:

  • 230g flour, I used very strong
  • 90g sugar
  • 120g egg yolks
  • 100g water
  • 80g butter
  • 100g natural yeast, refreshed three times prior

Secondo Impasto:

  • 50g flour
  • 20g egg yolks
  • 15g sugar
  • 60g butter
  • 2.5g salt
  • 60g cocoa paste (1/3 cocoa +1/3 butter + 1/3 sugar)
  • 130g candied orange cubes
  • 100g chocolate chips, I used 50g milk / 50g dark
  • zest of 1 lemon
  • zest of 1 orange
  • seeds of 1 vanilla pod
  • 15-20g water to adjust dough consistency


Up close before before being scored with a cross and cooling upside down after the bake.

After cooling completely, this panettone was wrapped and left to mature for 5 days before being cut into… The texture was the best I’ve had so far, very bready and very shreddy. For my taste this could have done with a little more salt even though I did raise it to 3 grams already.


Various photos of the crumb.

Close-ups

Iginio Massari’s “Modern” Panettone

To me, the pinnacle Panettone.

This is the most challenging formula for Panettone, hence why I have been so drawn to it. I rise to technical challenges. I followed the formula, timings and temperatures without compromise.

Iginio Massari’s formulas typically use only 25% natural yeast and cooler temps for the first dough. The result, more flavour… I can still recall that familiar aroma after the first rise. So aromatic!

Oven spring was huge. I didn’t know when it was going to stop… Lasting nearly 20mins.

slice

The taste and texture was perfect. I made the choice to use super strong Canadian flour to get that fluffy character I was looking for. A clean taste, not a hint of acidity or sourness. Just sweet, light, fluffy goodness, natural and nutritious.

The Best Panettone from Iginio Massari

I couldn’t resist making my favourite Panettone again!

As I wrote previously my regular Italian sourdough has been dried up and stored away in the fridge so that I could focus on making rustic sourdough breads. I created a new, wet 100% hydration starter but the temptation to convert it into a new Italian starter was too strong. And after bringing it to maturity I couldn’t resist making Panettone again!

So here we have one of my favourites courtesy of master pastry chef Igino Massari. Entitled “The Best Panettone” this is one very soft, very sweet and very moist cake!

I made dough for a 500g mould but the smallest ones I have in stock are 750g capacity. Consequently the resulting shape isn’t as proud as the Milanese style. I didn’t glaze it and instead cut ears…


Paper removed.


Cross-section.


Finally, I now have a better understanding of how best to mix the second dough. I have achieved the best crumb so far. I like those open pockets!

First dough: (26C for 12hrs)

  • 30g Lievito Naturale
  • 120g ’00’ Flour
  • 45g Water
  • 38g Sugar
  • 30g Egg Yolks
  • 43g Butter

Second dough: (28C until tripled ~8hrs)

  • 30g ’00’ Flour
  • 39g Egg Yolks
  • 30g Sugar
  • 7.5g Honey
  • 46g Butter
  • 21g Water
  • 2.4g Salt
  • .3g Aroma Panettone
  • .3g Vanilla
  • 60g Sultanas
  • 45g Candied Orange
  • 15g Candied Citron

Total Ingredients:

Flour 100
Water 45
Sugar 40
Honey 4
Yolks 41
Fats 53
Fruit 70
Salt 1.4
Flavourings .6
  355%
 

Panettone by Massimo Vitali

As my quest to perfect the art of producing panettone continues I decided upon placing yet another recipe under my belt. This time the recipe comes from master baker Massimo Vitali via ilpasticcione.net. It includes cocoa butter and milk powder unlike others I have tried. I have plenty of cocoa butter but no milk powder so I left this out. Other than a few adjustments with water and flavourings it’s as described in the formula.