Panettone di Giorilli

Piergiorgio Giorilli is a baker in a league of his own. His years of experience and effortless skills speak volumes. He is a true master! I have known of Giorilli for sometime now, yet I haven’t until now made a panettone in accordance with his methods and formula.

Processing of the mother dough is a skill that requires tuition and above all else experience. Giorilli opts to maintain his madre in water during the standard 12 hour period. While as typical, before proceeding to the first dough three refreshments are made lasting 4 hours each time.

From I sourced his recipe. I adapted his formula to make two 500 gram panettoni, flavoured with the traditional sultanas, orange and citron.

Primo impasto

69g lievito madre mature
75g sugar
120g water
54g egg yolks
72g butter
240g flour

Secondo impasto

60g flour
66g sugar
4g salt
96g egg yolks
129g butter
2g malt
120g sultanas
60g candied orange peel
30g candied citron

aromatic mix x2

30g acacia honey
vanilla pod seeds
orange zest
lemon zest


Panettone al Cioccolato di Iginio Massari

Sweet Alcohol aroma not sharp
Taste of Mozzarella, no bitter aftertaste
Soft ivory-white dough with elongated alveoli
pH 4.1

Feeding procedure that lead to mature lievito:

Tues. 00.00 1:1 – 12hrs @ ~18C
Tues. 12.00 1:1 – 12hrs @ ~18C
Wed. 00.00 1:1 – 17hrs @ ~18C
Wed. 17.00 1:1 – 18hrs @ ~18C
Thurs. 11.00 1:1 – 4hrs @ 28C
Thurs. 15.00 1:2 – 4hrs @ 28C – here ratio 1:2 to adjust for lievito too strong!
Thurs. 19.00 1:1 –15.5hrs @ ~18C
Fri. 10.30 1:1.5 – 4hrs @ 28C
Fri. 14.30 1:1 – 4hrs @ 28C
Fri. 18.30 1:1 – 4hrs @ 28C

Fri 22.30 – Primo Impasto

Lievito was put into a bath at the end of the storage phase at ~18C before the next refreshment.

Panettone Al Cioccolato di Iginio Massari

60    1000 Lievito
240    4000 Flour 280-320
60    1000 Sugar
81    1350 Butter
60    1000 yolks
78    1300 water

60    1000 flour 280-320
—-    3n vanilla
60    1000 yolks
72    1200 sugar
21    350 honey
93    1550 butter
4.8      80 salt
42     700 water
60    1000 cioccolato fondente
60    1000 cioccolato latte
60    1000 candied orange
1111.8    18530

Panettone di Rolando Morandin

… con cioccolato.

I follow Morandin’s method of keeping the madre in water all the time. Making three refreshments every 3 hours.

I subbed fruit for dark lindt chocolate.

Panettone di Rolando Morandin

200.0    4000 Flour
87.5    1750 sugar
50.0    1000 water
112.5    2250 yolks
100.0    2000 lievito
25.0     500 water
125.0    2500 butter

50.0    1000 flour
17.5     350 sugar
22.5     450 yolks
25.0     500 butter
  6.0     120 salt
150.0    3000 orange
100.0    2000 sultanas
50.0    1000 cedro

Hot Cross Buns with Lievito Madre

These buns were a make it up as you go along effort. I was still deciding on the numbers with the mixer running, working the dough I had thus far and I liberally added spices in the style of a well seasoned chef.

Having worked up a sweat mixing this dough partly by hand as well as in the mixer and the dough complete I saw I could have added more liquid. I knew the dough would tighten up a bit upon adding the dried fruit but I didn’t compensate enough. Still I was fairly pleased with finished dough considering this was an off-the-cuff, part improvised endeavour.

In keeping with the theme of improvising I picked a random weight at which to scale these. At circa 85 grams I had enough dough to make 18, more or less equal buns.

First dough:
300g flour
100g milk
75g LM (Lievito madre), refreshed 3 times
75g sugar
68g egg (1 large)
50g butter

Second Dough:
300g flour
150g milk
50g egg (1 medium)
75g sugar
125g butter
30g honey
9g salt
180g mixed fruit
# 1n orange zest
# 1/4tsp clove oil
# 1/4tsp orange oil
# 1/4tsp all spice
# 1/4tsp nutmeg
# 1/8tsp ginger
# 1.5tsp mixed spice
# 1.5tsp cinnamon

Traditionally the crosses should be made of just flour and water but I added some butter in there to shorten the flour slightly. And I used juice from the orange which I zested with some sugar to make a sweet glaze for the buns.

Colomba di Giorilli

I recognise Piergiorgio Giorilli to be a true master of baking. I followed the recipe from Fables de Sucre. For me the first and second dough’s rose very quickly.

Being so soft and light, unfortunately when hanging this dove upside down, it tore open at the wing but other than that mishap this was a perfect colomba di pasqua. I let this mature for a week before slicing into. Of course it was delicious!

Some minor crumb issues.

Panettone Paradiso

“Extra paradise” panettone from Cresci

286 10000 Flour W280
66 2300 Lievito Naturale
100 3500 Sugar
149 5200 Water
100 3500 Butter
0.29 10 Fresh yeast
40 1400 Sugar
57 2000 Honey
2.86 100 Diastatic malt powder
0.86 30 Fresh yeast
100 3500 Butter
63 2200 Egg yolks
86 3000 Walnuts
57 2000 Raisins
29 1000 Dark chocolate drops
2.86 100 Salt
—— —– Flavourings (Orange zest and vanilla)
1139.87 39840

I made two changes, one was to omit the added compressed yeast and the other was  substituting some of the walnuts with candied orange peel.

One of my finest panettoni. Incredibly soft and light which makes hard work when slicing. A fantastic bready texture that tears beautifully when pulled apart.

This is a very difficult formula to achieve success. The enriching ingredients in ratio to the flour are higher than any other panettone. This is due to their being no flour added in the second dough.